Introduction to Constructive Bidding
------------------------------------

This year we will have a series of lessons on constructive bidding.
Constructive bidding is defined as auctions with no interference by
the opponents.

There will be a series of five lessons:

  - Introduction to Constructive Bidding (this lesson)
  - No Trump Auctions
  - Major Suit Auctions
  - Minor Suit Auctions
  - Slam Bidding
  
In this lesson, we will learn the basic principles of bidding,
regardless of whatever conventions or treatments you play. If you
understand these principles, you will become a very good bidder, even
if you play a very simple bidding system. In fact, most very good
money bridge players use a very natural style of bidding, following
these principles and using very few, if any, conventions. As one
rubber bridge player once remarked to me after I watched him demolish
a pretty good duplicate bridge partnership using his very simple bidding
style, "Match points (tournament bridge) is an interesting game,
but it bears little resemblance to bridge".

Bidding Objectives
------------------

Non-slam auctions have only 2 simple objectives:

1. Bid game if possible, otherwise stay as low as you can.

2. Find a good strain (trump suit or NT).

You may have learned all these complicated bidding rules, but their
only purpose is to help you fulfill these simple objectives.

In this lesson, I will teach you how to meet the first objective,
determining if you should bid game. The subsequent lessons are related
to meeting the second objective, finding a good strain.

Determining If You Should Bid Game
----------------------------------

As opening bidder, your hand falls in one of three categories:

  - minimum (12-14 points)
  - medium (15-17 points)
  - maximum (18+ points)
  
Similarly, as responder, your hand falls in one of three categories:

  - minimum (6-8 points)
  - medium (9-11 points)
  - maximum (12+ points)
  
Remember, game requires that the combined partnership assets be at
least 25 points. Therefore, the following table summarizes how the
partnership can tell whether or not they have enough points to bid game:

                             Opener
Responder           Minimum   Medium  Maximum            

Minimum                No        No      Yes
Medium                 No        Yes     Yes
Maximum                Yes       Yes     Yes

During the auction, both partners should always be thinking about
whether it is still possible to bid game. For example, if your partner
opens and you, as responder, have a maximum (12+) hand, you should bid
game. Similarly, if you open with a maximum (18+) and get any response
from partner, you should bid game.

The Captain
-----------

(We men, in particular, should pay special attention to this section
because we will find it emotionally difficult to follw these principles!)

Although the bidding is a co-operative effort, one of the partners
is considered the "captain" of the hand. The other partner is considered
the subordinate (men, substitute "peon" or even "slave" so you get the
point). The captain is in charge of deciding the final contract.
This is accomplished by asking the subordinate to further describe
their hand and, perhaps, giving a choice of contracts. The subordinate
simply answers the captain's questions.

This next sentence is very important. On almost all hands, THE RESPONDER
IS THE CAPTAIN OF THE HAND. So (men), once you open the hand, you are
relegated to being the subordinate. Similarly (ladies), you as responder
are the captain and in charge of the auction.

The Captain's Tools
-------------------

The main difficulty for the captain is to communicate to the subordinate
when to keep bidding and when to stop.

The main tool to accomplish this is the "new suit forcing" principle.
If the responder bids a new suit, the opener is obligated to make
another bid. Opener, if your partner introduces a new suit, 
YOU MAY NOT PASS. 

(Some advanced partnerships even play a convention called
"fourth suit forcing". If 3 suits have been bid, and responder bids
the fourth suit, which may be artificial, the partnership is committed
to bid game.)

The other forcing bid is for responder to jump (e.g. 1H-1S-2C-3S).
This should be avoided, if possible, in favor of new suit forcing,
which leaves more room for further bidding.

The Subordinate's Tools
-----------------------

The subordinate is responsible for describing both the strength
(e.g. minimum, medium, maximum) and suits. In this lesson,
we will concentrate on how to describe strength.

Minimum hands are described by making the cheapest bid possible
in the strain opener wishes to bid (e.g. 1H-1S-2C). Maximum hands
are described by jump shifting, bidding one level higher than
necessary in a new suit (e.g. 1H-1S-3C).

Medium hands are a bit harder to describe. Fortunately, many medium
hands are opened 1NT. Another method is to jump in the opening
suit (e.g. 1H-1S-3H).

Another method to show a medium or maximum opening hand is to
use a "reverse". A reverse is defined as bidding past the
minimum rebid of your suit (e.g. 1C-1S-2H). A reverse shows
a medium or maximum hand and promises that opener will bid at
least once more. A reverse also guarantees that the opening suit
is longer than the second suit (in the above example, opener
shows at least 5 clubs, 4 hearts, and a medium/maximum hand). Playing
reverses means that you sometimes have to suppress a four card
suit. For example, if you have 5 diamonds, 4 spades, and a minimum
opener, if open 1D and partner responds 2C, you must respond 2D
(because 2S promises a medium or strong hand). Many beginning
players find reverses confusing, but I think they are an essential
tool if you want to become a good bidder.

Opener should avoid being redundant. Every new bid should provide
partner with new information. For example, once you open 1 of a
major partner knows you have at least a minimum opening hand with
at least a 5 card suit. Some players will rebid their suit if they
can't think of anything better. Rebidding your suit should promise
a six card suit. If you only have a five card suit, bid another suit
or bid NT.

Quiz
----

Below are several hands you might hold as responder. For each hand:

a) Determine the hand type (minimum, medium, maximum)

b) Determine the minimum hand type opener must have to bid game

1) S Axxx
   H KQxx
   D Kxx
   C xx
   
   a) You {responder) have maximum hand
   b) You should unconditionally bid game, even if opener has a minimum
   
2) S Axxx
   H KQxx
   D xxx
   C xx

   a) You {responder) have medium hand
   b) You should bid game if opener has a medium or maximum hand
   
3) S Axxx
   H Kxxx
   D xxx
   C xx
   
   a) You (responder) have a minimum hand
   b) You should only bid game if opener has a maximum hand
   
Below are several partial auctions. You are responder.
For each auction:

a) Describe everything you know about opener's hand.

b) Determine the minimum hand type you must have to bid game.

1) 1D-1H-1NT

   a) Opener has a minimum hand
      Opener has 2 or 3 hearts (would bid 2H with 4 hearts)
      Opener has 2 or 3 spades (would bid 1S with 4 spades)
      Opener has 4 or 5 diamonds
      Opener usually has 3 or 4 clubs (the only time opener has 2 clubs is
      with 3 spades, 3 hearts, 5 diamonds, and 2 clubs)
      
   b) You (responder) should only bid game with a maximum hand

2) 1D-1S-2D

   a) Opener has a minimum hand
   	  Opener almost always has 6 diamonds --
   	    Opener should bid 1NT with most 5-3-3-2 patterns, unless the diamonds are really
   	    solid (e.g. AKQxx or AKJ10x, which is almost as good as a 6 card suit)
   	    With 5 diamonds and 4 hearts, opener might choose 2D instead of 1NT
   	  Opener does not have 4 hearts (would bid 2H), 4 spades (would bid 1S), 
   	    or 4 clubs (would bid 2C)      

   b) You (responder) should only bid game with a maximum hand

3) 1D-1S-3D

   a) Opener has a medium hand (and not a maximum hand)
      Opener does not have 4 hearts (would bid 2H, a reverse)
      Opener does not have 4 spades (would bid 3S)
      Opener usually has six diamonds (the only time opener has 5 diamonds is with
        2 spades, 2 hearts, 5 diamonds, and 4 clubs; with any 5-3-3-2 distribution,
        opener would have opened 1NT)
        
    b) You (responder) should bid game with a medium or maximum hand


4) 1D-1S-2H

    a) Opener has a medium or maximum hand
       Opener has 4 hearts
       Opener does not have 4 spades (would bid 3S or 4S)
       Opener has at least 5 diamonds; with 4-4 in the red suits, opener would have
         opened 1NT or rebid 2NT (ok, opener rarely will have 1 spade, 4 hearts, 4 diamonds, and 
         4 clubs with a medium hand, but you should assume opener has 5 diamonds)
         
     b) You (responder) should bid game with a medium hand.
        Since opener could have a maximum hand, you may not pass; if you do not make
        a forcing bid (e.g. 3C or 3S), opener is responsible for bidding game with a maximum hand.

5) 1D-1S-3C

     a) Opener has a maximum hand
        Opener does not have 4 hearts (would bid 2H)
        Opener does not have 4 spades (would bid 4S)
        Opener has at least 4 clubs
        Opener almost always has at least 5 diamonds (with 4 diamonds, 4 clubs, and 3-2
          in the majors, opener would rebid 2NT; the only distribution without 5 diamonds
          is 1 spade 4 hearts, 4 diamonds, and 4 clubs). 
          You should assume opener has 5 or more diamonds.
          
Many people (including experienced bridge players) only think about their hands during the bidding.
The point of the above exercises is to get you in the habit of thinking about partner's hand
as well; as you can see, you know a lot about partner's hand even after only 2 bids.

Below are several hands you might have as opener, with several
partial auctions. What is your next bid?

1) S xx
   H AKxx
   D KQxxx
   C xx
  
   1D-1S-?
   
   2D is my first choice; 1NT is possible and would be chosen by some experts.
   You should not bid 2H, as that is a reverse (showing at least a medium opener)
   
2) S xx
   H AKxx
   D AKJxx
   C xx
   
   1D-1S-?
   
   2H is the perfect bid; a medium hand with at least 5 diamonds and 4 hearts.
   
3) S xx
   H xx
   D AKxxx
   C AQxx
   
   1D-1S-?
   
   2C is the correct bid, providing the most information to your partner.
   If you bid 2D you are denying a 4 card club suit. 
   If you bid 1NT (the choice of hand hogs!), you are denying 2-2 in the majors.
   
4) S xx
   H xx
   D AKQxx
   C AQxx
   
   1D-1S-?
   
   3D is the best bid. Shows a medium hand with at least 5 diamonds.
   If you bid 2C, you are making an underbid (shows a minimum opener).
   If you bid 3C, you are making an overbid (shows a maximum opener).
   
5) S xx
   H xx
   D AKQxx
   C AKJx
   
   1D-1S-?
   
   3C is the best bid. Shows a maximum hand with at least 5 diamonds and at least
   4 clubs. 
   
6) S xx
   H AKxx
   D AQxx
   C xxx
   
   1D-1S-1NT-2C-?
   
   You may not pass (a new suit is forcing!). The best bid is 2H. This shows your precise distribution.
   With 3 spades, you would bid 2S. With 4 clubs you would bid 3C.  With 5 diamonds, you would bid 2D.
   
   1D-1S-1NT-2S-?
  
   Pass. Partner has not made a forcing bid (in fact, it is a "close out" bid; you must pass).
   Remember, partner is the captain and is responsible for choosing the final contract.
   You have already described your hand and have nothing further to add.